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Joann Pai

Lindsey Tramuta

Paris, France

Cats in Paris

A woman who both writes and photographs beautifully, AND loves cats has a restaurant list I want.


Photo of Jessica Seinfeld

On Lindsey

I came across Lindsey on Instagram (@Lostncheeseland) and fell in love with her fresh eye, beautiful photos, and cool restaurant choices. She gives you a bountiful slice of Paris in every shot. After you read her list, check out her book, “The New Paris: the People, Places & Ideas Fueling a Movement.” Lindsay is also a cat lady so I know she gets “it”.

The List

Racines

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This is a special restaurant for so many reasons, chief among them the warmth, talent and hospitality of chef-owner Simone Tondo. The Sardinian chef took over this historic bistro in the heart of the Passage des Panoramas just over a year ago and turned it into what he calls a bistrattoria, earning a Michelin-star in short order. Dishes are a mix of Parisian and Sardinian, served on antiqued tableware, and include fresh pasta which you should absolutely order.
Reservations highly recommended for lunch and dinner.

8 Passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris

Balagan

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There’s perhaps no place as fun to dine as this temple to Mediterranean cooking from Jerusalem’s top chefs Assaf Granit and Uri Navon. If you can’t get a table, snag a spot in the boudoir-style cocktail bar near the entrance where you can order from the menu. Key to the experience is putting your trust in the hands of the very knowledgeable servers and embracing the bon vivant atmosphere (which invariably includes throwing back a few shots that accompany the bill).

9 rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris

Robert

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I take everyone I know to chef Peter Orr’s 11th arrondissement restaurant, Robert, that plays with recognizably French dishes and offers a twist, often in the form of spices, pickled vegetables, and homemade condiments. Having spent years cooking Italian fare, there’s always a fresh pasta dish on the menu. Go at lunch for an affordable entrée-plat-dessert menu that changes regularly.

32 rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 75011 Paris

Mokonuts

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It’s not worth trying to define or categorize the style of cooking at this husband and wife-run café-restaurant (only open for breakfast and lunch) but you can be sure the culinary influences are an amalgam of Moko and Omar’s backgrounds (Japanese and French-Lebanese respectively) and experiences cooking in New York, London and Paris. Dishes change daily but you’ll often see, marinated tomatoes, labneh and za’atar on toast, which you should absolutely order, and one of each of Moko’s stellar cookies.

5 Rue Saint Bernard, 75011 Paris

Fou De Pâtisserie

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This is a one-stop shop for some of the city’s best pastries and confections. You can pick up signature treats from greats like Pierre Hermé, Carl Marletti, Cyril Lignac, Hugo & Victor, among others, that are delivered fresh daily. Whatever you do, don’t leave without picking up a Pierre Hermé Ispahan croissant, should there be any left. To. Die. For.

45 rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris

36 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris

Bontemps Pâtisserie

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If I dream of anything sweet, it’s the cream and fruit-filled shortbread cookies from this family-run bake shop specialized in sablés. And not just any flavor (though I’d happily accept all of them as a gift, *ahem*), but the banana flambéed caramel, a pairing you rarely see offered in France. The sablé crusts are also used to make a variety of divine pies and tarts. Take some to go or stay for a relaxed tea time at the shop’s café annex.

57 Rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris

Cafe Mericourt

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From the owner of the equally as wonderful Café Oberkampf, this coffee shop-canteen does a mean shakshuka and baked green eggs, offers a dish-of-the-day, healthy green bowls and a host of homemade cakes. I go for coffee and almost always end up staying for lunch.

22 rue de la Folie Mércirourt, 75011 Paris

Le Mary Celeste

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One of the city’s best wine and craft cocktail bars (sister to the award-winning bar-taqueria Candelaria) with a seafood-forward small plates menu and a beachy-cool vibe that transports even on the most relentless of rainy Parisian days.

1 rue Commines, 75003 Paris

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